I've styled Issa Rae's hair for practically a decade. From ditching combs to holding your edges throughout protecting kinds, right here's learn how to take care of pure hair.

• Felicia Leatherwood is a star hairstylist who focuses on pure haircare. 
• Leatherwood has labored with celebrities like Issa Rae, Viola Davis, Ava DuVernay, and Jill Scott. 
• She mentioned to exchange combs with detangling brushes and shared which merchandise to keep away from primarily based on hair texture. 

This as-told-to essay relies on a dialog with Felicia Leatherwood, a star stylist and pure hair professional who’s labored within the business for over twenty years. It has been edited for size and readability.

I have been doing hair since I used to be 16, however on the books, I began professionally in 2000. Throughout my profession, I’ve labored with a number of celebrities, together with Ava DuVernay, Viola Davis, and Issa Rae. I styled Issa’s hair on “Insecure,” and HBO interviewed me in regards to the seems. It went viral on social media and in that area, I obtained lots of DMs of individuals saying, “Take your flowers.” 

At that second, I used to be in a position to have gratitude for what I’ve achieved and what I’ve constructed – after which I went again to work. 

Do not use combs to detangle pure curls and coils as a result of they do not all the time break up knots

I would not use a comb as a result of the little tooth of the comb do not all the time break up the hair, particularly in case you have what’s generally known as “fairy knots,” which is the place the strand in essentially the most micro stage will loop into itself and create a knot. 

Once you use a detangling brush, all the time begin on the ends and work your manner towards the scalp whereas the hair has conditioner on it. By no means start at the scalp when you may have pure hair texture or textured hair.

Utilizing non-moisturizing shampoos and merchandise whereas washing pure hair will trigger dryness

Your hair merchandise, together with shampoo, must be moisturizing as an alternative.

You probably have tight curly, or kinky, coarse hair, you need to search for a shampoo that softens the hair. One among my suggestions is to make use of a conditioning shampoo or add conditioner to a shampoo that dries your hair out. 

In case your hair is straight, wavy, or loosely curled, then you are able to do a clarifying shampoo as a result of the sebum, which is the oil that naturally comes from the issues we eat and creates buildup, isn’t the most effective with these textures. Sebum could make straight or loosely curled hair stringy.

I might keep away from merchandise which have alcohol 

In the event you learn a product’s substances and see alcohol come up like 3 times whereas having 4A to 4C texture hair, I might say, “Do not do it.” The alcohol goes to dry your hair out.

And I undoubtedly wish to guarantee that girls perceive that as a hairstylist, I’ve talked to so many several types of girls. Some say, “I need nothing to do with parabens or sulfates.” However, I’ve had different girls inform me their hair likes parabens and they don’t thoughts over-the-counter merchandise which have sulfates and parabens. 

So, I usually say for those who discover that your physique, scalp, or pores and skin is delicate, keep away from these chemical compounds. 

Additionally, any ingredient that is in relaxers and perms shouldn’t be in your shampoos, conditioners, or something you utilize in your hair. I would additionally keep away from phthalates as a result of they’re dangerous. 

Strive to not use styling merchandise that will not work together with your hair texture

Gels, mousses, and foams are fantastic for wavy to curly hair, however lotions are inclined to weigh hair down if you’re in that unfastened curl class. Lotions could make the hair heavy and mess with the curl.

In case your hair is coarse, coily, or has a tighter curl, lotions are higher. Lotions and butters work finest as a result of they coat and seal the hair’s cuticle layers to supply moisture. 

Some folks with pure hair don’t love shrinkage, however do not use a blow dryer too usually

Some folks actually wish to stretch their hair as a result of they do not just like the shrinkage, however do not use the blow dryer usually. Each different week is sufficient, or two to 3 occasions a month.

Earlier than utilizing a blow dryer, you may want a warmth protectant as a result of the warmth will break the cuticle bonds down on the hair. 

With protecting kinds like braids, be certain that to not pull your edges too tight

Individuals ought to maintain their edges when a braider begins with their hair to allow them to actually launch the strain. The shopper ought to be capable to maintain the very tip of that braid on the base of the scalp in order that the braider or the hair cells isn’t pulling the hair, inflicting traction alopecia.